The City Remembers
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Roesler and Hurtig Tenement House
The first modern commercial building in Poland, created by Czech merchants.

At the end of the 18th century, Czech and Moravian merchants Roesler and Hurtig bought land from Count Małachowski and built a revolutionary commercial and residential building here. It was the first building on Polish lands with specially designed display windows, one of the most expensive and luxurious in Warsaw. Despite their company's bankruptcy in 1794, the tenement house remained in the family's ownership for another nine years. Today you see a building restored after 70% destruction in World War II, preserving the spirit of the ambitious 18th century.
Crazy factIn 1839, the 'Pod Nadzieją' ('Under Hope') beer hall opened here, the first in Warsaw to serve Bavarian beer, becoming a favorite spot for young writers of the 'Warsaw Bohemians'.
Photo: Adrian Grycuk, CC BY-SA 3.0 pl
2 min walk · 160 m
Primate's Palace
Here a Russian envoy dictated terms, and centuries later people bade farewell to a writer

In November 1767, a Sejm delegation negotiated with Russian envoy Nikolai Repnin within these walls about equal rights for religious dissenters — a conversation that cost the Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth its independence. The palace later survived the Swedish Deluge, fires, and a complete neoclassical reconstruction. Today it houses the boutique Bellotto Hotel, where travellers sleep instead of primates, and where Maria Dąbrowska's coffin once stood in the column hall.
Crazy factIn 1965, the coffin of writer Maria Dąbrowska was displayed in the palace's column hall — a secular building became the place of farewell to a classic of Polish literature.
Photo: MM, Public domain
8 min walk · 620 m
Tomb of the Unknown Soldier
A fragment of a palace that was blown up but not erased
The arcade is all that’s left of the Saxon Palace, blown up by the Germans in 1944. A guard of honour stands here round the clock.
Crazy factIn 1925 the soldier was chosen by lot from among those who fell in the battles for Lwów. The lot was drawn by Jadwiga Zarugiewicz, mother of a soldier missing in action.
Photo: Alina Zienowicz Ala z, Public domain
4 min walk · 310 m
Zachęta Gallery
The gallery where a president was killed

Poland’s leading gallery of contemporary art, in a building from 1900.
Crazy factOn 16 December 1922, at an exhibition here, painter Eligiusz Niewiadomski shot Poland’s first president, Gabriel Narutowicz — five days after he took office.
Photo: Cybularny, CC0
10 min walk · 770 m
Tadeusz Kościuszko Monument
A hero of two revolutions, whose monument waited nearly 200 years.

Imagine a man who fortified West Point for George Washington and then led a desperate uprising against the Russian and Prussian armies in Warsaw. This site honors Tadeusz Kościuszko, a national hero of Belarus, Poland, and the USA, whose life was an endless fight for freedom. The bronze figure, created back in 1910, appeared here only a century later, in 2010, after a long series of failed attempts and changing eras. Look closely at the general's face — he seems to still be gazing at the city he once defended.
Crazy factA bank provided the funds for this monument, but on the condition that it face the bank's office instead of the Royal Castle, as originally planned.
Photo: Adrian Grycuk, CC BY-SA 3.0 pl
7 min walk · 490 m
Ulica Próżna & Nożyk Synagogue
The last corner of pre-war Jewish Warsaw
- hidden gem
Próżna still has its pre-war tenement houses — a rarity in this part of town. Just nearby is the Nożyk Synagogue, Warsaw’s only surviving pre-war synagogue.
Crazy factThe synagogue survived the war because the Germans used it as a stable and a warehouse. Today services are held there again.
Photo: Adrian Grycuk, CC BY-SA 3.0 pl
More stops (3)
4 min walk · 300 m
Nożyk Synagogue
How a childless couple gave Warsaw a temple that survived horses and oblivion

Imagine a May evening in 1902: the lights are on, Cantor Lewinsohn leads the prayers with a choir, and Zalman Nożyk personally carries the Torah scrolls into the new ark. This synagogue was entirely funded, from the land purchase to the last brick, by a childless merchant couple — Zalman and Rywka Nożyk — so that both rich and poor could pray here. Today it is the main synagogue of the Jewish Community of Warsaw, where you will notice its stately yet tasteful architecture, and behind the eastern wall lie original stained-glass windows that survived the 1923 reconstruction.
Crazy factDuring World War II, the Nazis turned the prayer hall into a stable for horses and a fodder warehouse, before unexpectedly allowing it to reopen for worshippers in 1941.
Photo: Adrian Grycuk, CC BY-SA 3.0 pl
11 min walk · 830 m
Ghetto Wall Fragment
A brick wall in an ordinary courtyard
- hidden gem

In a courtyard between ulica Sienna and Złota survives one of the last fragments of the 1940 Warsaw Ghetto wall.
Crazy factIn 1989 two bricks from this wall went to the Holocaust Museum in Washington, where a replica of the wall stands. Others are kept at Yad Vashem, in Houston and in Melbourne.
Photo: Adrian Grycuk, CC BY-SA 3.0 pl
17 min walk · 1.3 km
Footbridge of Memory (Chłodna)
A bridge of light over the street that split the ghetto
- hidden gem
In 1942 ulica Chłodna lay outside the ghetto, with the large and small ghettos on either side. People were taken across on a wooden footbridge over the street.
Crazy factToday two masts stand on the spot, linked by glowing fibre-optic “strings” — a bridge of light instead of a bridge of fear.